Taking Afternoon Tea at the Swann Lounge: The quintessential luxury tea is found at the Four Seasons, overlooking one of the city's finest squares with fountains on both sides.

Visiting the Barnes Foundation: The Barnes Foundation Gallery in Merion houses the most important private collection of Impressionist and early French modern paintings in the world, displaying more Cézannes than all the museums of France put together. Try to schedule a visit around its open hours from Friday to Sunday (or Wed to Fri in summertime).

Wandering Through Fairmount Park: It would take dozens of outings to fully explore the 100 miles of trails in this 8,900-acre giant of an urban park--some of them are virtually unchanged since Revolutionary times. We'll settle for the hundreds of flame azaleas that bloom behind the Art Museum in spring and the dozen Georgian country mansions kept in immaculate condition.

Shopping on First Friday: On the first Friday of every month, the galleries, stores, and studios of Old City--just above Independence National Historical Park--remain open with refreshments until 9pm. Wander along the cobblestone streets, stopping into one of the many coffee bars or bistros.

Stepping Back in Time in Historic Philadelphia: Everyone knows about the miraculous reclamation of this country's colonial capital, from the Liberty Bell to hundreds of row houses with their distinctive bricks and 18th-century formal gardens (and welcoming benches). But the new tours (especially the nighttime "Lights of Liberty" show), the costumed town criers with free maps, and the Revolutionary War-era street theater bring the experience even closer. Just wander; they'll find you.

Snacking on Pretzels, Hoagies, and Philly's Famous Cheesesteaks: Philadelphia has a rich tradition of cuisine from haute (as in the shad roe from fish caught in the Delaware River each April) to hot (the warm, soft, salty pretzels served slathered with mustard at stands all over town or at the Pretzel Museum in Old City). The hoagie is something else--cold cuts, lettuce, and onions layered with oil and vinegar--along with its cousin the cheesesteak, also served on an enormous elongated bun.

Strolling Around Independence Square at Night: The combination of history, elegance, and proportion among the three main buildings that contained America's first government always induces a sense of wonder at this country's good fortune in its founding citizens. You might even feel the urge to jump aboard one of the horse-drawn carriages lined up in front of the square.

Enjoying the Lights at Night: As of January 2000, the William Penn statue atop City Hall and seven Schuylkill River bridges are permanently lighted, joining the pinlights that outline the boathouses along the Schuylkill River. Sheer magic.

Listening to Hot Jazz and Blues: There are at least half a dozen clubs with world-class, down-home, accessible, and affordable American music any night you're in town, very possibly with local sons like Grover Washington Jr. and Christian McBride.

Touring an Open House: If you're in the city at the right time, don't miss the tours of restored mansions in Society Hill, Rittenhouse Square, or Fairmount Park for a delightful lesson in interior design and Americana. They're scattered throughout the year, but I especially love the pre-Christmas season.

Checking Out Penn's Landing and the Delaware Waterfront: With the newly opened Independence Seaport Museum, historic ships, throbbing pier lounges and discos, and spanking-new sidewalks and street life, Philadelphia has definitively reclaimed its waterfront for tourism. The massive project now under construction will add a hotel, an FAO Schwarz toy store, a children's museum, and multimedia family fun to the mix by 2003.

Breathing Deeply at the Philadelphia Flower Show: In early March, the scent-sational Flower Show--the largest and most prestigious indoor exhibition of its kind in the world--descends on the Pennsylvania Convention Center.

Rubbing Elbows at the Philadelphia Museum of Art: It has a stupendous collection of masterpieces, period rooms, and crafts, and is becoming one of the hottest museums in the country for special exhibitions. Look for more blockbusters like the recent van Gogh and Cézanne exhibitions. The late Wednesdays have become one of the city's trendiest social scenes.

Cheering the Regattas Along the Schuylkill: On any spring weekend, stand along Boathouse Row just north of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Crews race each other every 5 minutes or so, with cheering friends along the riverbanks.

Stocking Up at the Reading Terminal Market: From Bassett's ice cream to Bain's turkey sandwiches to the food of the 12th Street Cantina, this is the century-old mother lode of unpackaged, fresh, honest-to-goodness provisions. Amish farmers come every Thursday to Saturday to sell their custards and scrapple (a kind of herbed pork casserole held together with cornmeal and fried before serving, either hot or cold). And what could be more convenient than its being right underneath the Convention Center?

Exploring South Philly: Exuberant attitude punctuates every interchange you'll have, whether on a stroll with samples through the Italian Market or wandering farther south to seek out the area's great pizzas, cannoli, or famed cheesesteaks.

Dining on Walnut and Sydenham Streets: This particular corner near Rittenhouse Square has more world-class restaurants within mere feet of each other--Le Bec-Fin, Circa, Striped Bass, Brasserie Perrier, Susanna Foo, and Il Portico--than any other spot anywhere in the world. Whatever your taste or price range, you should try one of them.